After closing my Salon in 2010, I began researching haircutting using the scientific method. I knew that the head shape would change the cut but I did not know how to adjust my angles on different head shapes so that the cut would look the same.
I was blown away by what my research was showing me. I discovered much more than I was looking for. For example, I saw that 90 degrees RARELY LAYERS the hair. In most cases it actually builds weight!!!!! That is because the shape we cut falls into gravity and gravity changes the shape. I also saw the importance of working off of each plane of the head. If we pull hair from two different planes and cut them as one, we could be layering and building weight … AT THE SAME TIME! Next, I realized how little we use actual geometry in our current systems. Math is absolute! Because we have not paid attention to the plane we are cutting on, we may think we are cutting hair at 90 degrees and instead we are cutting at 30 degrees FROM HEAD SHAPE. This lack of accuracy and understanding causes heavy places in our haircuts, which we must then go back into and remove weight with point cutting and/or thinning shears.
After all the research I was able to create a system that allows you to predict and cut the shapes we want with unbelievable accuracy!